Naples – The History

“Seriously? What is there to see in Naples? It’s just a port where cruisers can get to Pompeii, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast.” This is what many say about this intriguing city.

Peter Nichols, Italian correspondent for the Times of London, 1970s, stated, “Naples is one of the great tests. Some people hate it and some people love it. But those who do not love it, I think are afraid of something.”

I love Naples. I’ve been there 8-10 times since 2010. On one three-week back-to-back cruise itinerary in 2017, I went to Naples three weeks in a row. We found something different to do each week. I went back again the next spring and found yet another fascinating part of the city.

I also love history, so we must have a short history lesson first. Locals call themselves Napoletanos. They consider themselves citizens of their city first, then citizens of Italy. They speak Neopolitan. It sounds like Italian but has many variations. They understand basic tourist Italian, but if you’re proficient in Italian, you may find different phrases and accents here.

There’s a tiny island near where the cruise ships dock that’s connected to a local legend. A beautiful dying mermaid-goddess, Parthenope, supposedly washed ashore on that island and gave the city its name. Naples also claims to be the site of Odysseus’ escape from the sirens during his ten-year journey after the Trojan War.

Naples Underground

The Roman Empire soon swallowed Naples. You can see evidence of that today. This is one of those fascinating must-see sights: the Naples Underground. Visitors go deep under the city to see remnants of Naples in Nero’s time. He created a theater where he was the star. Attendees were required—on penalty of death—to applaud. A very pregnant lady was not allowed to leave and supposedly birthed her child during a performance.

You’ll descend 400 steps, squeeze through narrow passages, and see where residents sheltered from the bombing in World War II. Neglected for many years, it was restored in the 1960s. We toured with the two gentlemen pictured below. They spoke very little English. I knew five Italian words. Somehow, we managed to share our life stories! It’s on the left side of town as you exit the dock. Reservations are required. https://www.lanapolisotterranea.it/

If you enjoy museums, Naples has a plethora. https://theculturetrip.com/europe/italy/articles/the-must-visit-museums-in-naples/.

Gastronomy – Pizza

Of course, you must eat pizza—Margherita Pizza, that is. Naples is its birthplace. Brandi’s Pizzeria, pictured below, is the descendent of the Pizzeria di Pietro e Basta Cosi, established in 1780. All chefs were named Pietro. When Queen Margherita of Savoy was in town, she saw this strange, floppy food the locals were eating. She summoned Pietro and demanded a sample. He created a simple pizza of tomato sauce, mozzarella, and a sprig of basil; we still eat it today. True? Who knows, but you must try it.

If you’re used to American pizza, this is different. It’s floppy; the proper way to eat it is to roll it up and bite off a piece, as my niece is doing in the photo. It’s also huge. One time, three of us each ordered our own at a restaurant across from the dock. The guards at the port had a nice treat that night!

We also love bruschetta. We’ve eaten both Margherita Pizza and bruschetta at several restaurants in Naples. We never had a bad experience.

Castel Sant’Elmo

This huge fort sits high on a hill above town, visible from your cruise ship deck or the dock. Robert of Anjou began its construction in 1329; over the years various rulers added and remodeled until this star-shaped structure became virtually impregnable. It’s huge, able to house over 3,000 soldiers.

If you’re hardy, you can get there on foot with a good map. It’s an uphill climb but will give you glimpses into the lives of the locals. One year, three of us walked part way, then found the funicular.

The most convenient way is to exit the dock and go across the street on the walkway next to the Castel Nuovo (stop there to look around but pass by the men selling items on blankets—it’s illegal.) When you reach the end, turn right and the main shopping area is just around the corner on Corso Umberto I, as is the Funicular station (see photo.) Get your ticket (buy two, they’re one-way) and remember to validate it each time you enter/exit. Ride the car all the way to the end (takes just a few minutes).

Exit the station, turn right, and follow the brown signs (see photo) up the stairs or escalators. It’s about a 15-minute walk. There is an entrance fee. The views of Naples are stupendous and the castle’s history worth the climb.

When you return to the funicular station at the top of the hill, detour into the shopping area—good restaurants, flower shops, even a large grocery store.

Shopping and Wandering the Back Streets

Naples is a shopper’s paradise. There are stores in every price range. Some have window signs advertising items: €5-10-15. My daughter is young and thin enough to wear these clothes and always comes home with a suitcase full of new outfits. Via Chiaia (also the location of Brandi Pizzeria) has both high and low-end stores. Corso Umberto I (also where you’ll find the funicular) has many name brand stores.

But before you load up with shopping bags, pick a street, any street, and start up the hill (most streets in central Naples seem to go uphill). Turn left, turn right, stop to admire an interesting door, talk to a local—spend a couple of hours with the locals. They conduct life in the streets and from their balconies—conversations, laundry, even shopping. You might see, as I did, a lady pulling up a basket on a rope, special delivery.

Should You Explore Naples?

Yes, you should go to Pompeii if you’ve never been (Tip: Pompeii is a half day tour, so choose one of these options for the rest of the day.)

Yes, you should take the ferry to Capri if you’ve never been (you don’t need a shore excursion—the ferry docks just north of the cruise port.) But Naples is featured on almost every western Mediterranean cruise itinerary, so I encourage you to try these other options.

It’s a safe destination. Police are everywhere, and people are friendly. If you need directions, ask “Dovè ___________” (pronounced doh-vay). They will point and gesticulate and eventually you’ll find your way.

Have fun! Shop. Eat. Explore. Go to the top of the hill. Ride the funicular. Meet the locals. And spread the news that Naples is a must-see destination.

Final Words

My book, Windows on the World, is available on Amazon. Click on my website www.thetravelinglecturer.com for more information and travel articles. You can also follow my two accounts on Instagram here and here.